It’s been a while since I’ve posted more information, but you’re likely past the first few critical benchmarks with a new colony of bees. Now it’s mainly a matter of letting them build. Random thoughts and suggestions:
Entrance reducers: If your bees are lining up to return, it is probably time to change to the next opening size. If you only have a “small” and a “full” size, you may want to leave it on small for a bit longer, a week or so. It depends upon the strength of the hive and what is available for forage out there. You want your bees to be able to defend against raiders, and it hasn’t been wildly hot yet. Amen to that! We’ve rotated our entrance reducers to the medium opening.
Bottom boards: If you’re using screened bottom boards with the slide-in solid board, also often called a debris board, probably no reason yet to pull it out for the season. When your hive population builds up more, or the weather gets continuously hot—it may be time to pull them back, or remove entirely.
Pollen patties: Those are hive beetle magnets. If there’s any left, get ‘em out of there!
Queen cells: You may find “queen peanuts” or “queen cups”, they look just like peanuts. The bottom is open, nothing inside of it. We humans think they’re just practice cells; bees do that. You might also find capped cells, which might mean:
- They’re going to swarm—or they already have. Sure, the books will tell you first year hives don’t typically swarm, but some do. Likely their nature, or they feel overcrowded.
- They’re going to replace the queen (supercedure). That’s a good thing—they’ve determined that she’s not the best choice for their future so they’re cultivating another. I think the ones pictured are supercedure cells due to their placement on the frame.
If you find plenty of queen cells, consider making a nuc with some of them. (Drop me an email if you need more info.)
How cool it all is: So, a couple of newbees have sent me videos of them inspecting their hives, or activity in their hives. Do you really think I’m going to sit around and watch those?
Well yes I am, two or three times each. I’m a bee nerd! And thanks!
Reordering frames: You’ll find recommendations to put an undrawn frame between two drawn frames. A main reason to do that is to get them to build it out—bees don’t like a “blank” in the middle of the brood nest.
Doing so is a concern when the colony is just getting started though. The brood needs to stay together for warmth until there’s enough bees or warmer weather. Now is the time of year when you can start moving them a bit. If you’re using Langstroth equipment, it is real common for them to not want to work the outer frames. Repositioning those to the middle will encourage them to work them.
If I find the queen in the top, do I dare work the bottom box? No issue, chances are very, very slim that she’ll fly off. But as always, work the box only if you have a reason to do so. Reasons might include verifying that they’ve drawn out most of the frames, checking for queen cells, or simply marveling at how cool bees are.
If you know the queen is in the top box, ever so gently set the box on the bottom-side-up outer cover, cross-ways so there are only four small points of contact. That minimizes bee squishing. Place the inner cover over that box while you’re working the bottom box. It’ll help hold in the important queen-scent, and bees—and give them the darkness they appreciate.
The queen probably will remain in the interior frames, but when covering, do a quick check to ensure she’s not on the edge in “squish me” position.